中国的服装空间应该怎么设计？

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摘要：大犬空间研究社最新男装定制空间设计

痕迹 THE TRACE

“痕迹无形，借以物件，察觉时间的流动。”

“Traces are invisible. They perceive the flow of time through objects.”

在乐订定制空间设计之前，来自大犬空间研究社的设计师Jin Xin & Red Hu受邀考察该品牌的服装制作间，看到关于一件西装制作的过程。布料料，打版，裁剪，就连老旧的缝线的机器和熨烫的工具都显得十分的令人着迷。

The designer, Jin Xin and Red Hu who founded Greater Dog Spatial Research Lab,was invited to visit the suit production studio and see the process of hand-making suit before they started LEDING Bespoke space design project. It was fascinated to see different fabrics, plate-making, tailoring, even old sewing machines and ironing tools.

于是，设计师把这些原始的工具和机器带回到空间，作为叙事的开端。也希望观者看到的不仅只是所有产品，而同时也能解读到制作过程中留下来的痕迹。

Therefore, designers brought primitive tools and machines back to space as the beginning of narrative. It is also hoped that people can not only see all goods, but reading the traces left in the production process.

时间流动

TIME FLOW

随着时间的流逝，衣型渐渐地显现出来。它好似不再只是一件漂亮的衣裳，而是把 “细致对待手中线” 的匠心传递给它的主人。

As time goes by, suits are gradually shaped from a piece of fabric. It seems that it is no longer just a beautiful cloth, Instead, it handed over the ingenuity of "Meticulous treatment of the threads on your hands" to its owner.

“时间流动” 陈列装置表达的便是这份美妙的心意。它是流动的，亦是静止的;它高低起伏，犹如棱角分明的山峦; 它是一组围绕着楼梯入口生长的10cm*10cm的立方体，在自由组合的节奏中满足不同物件与产品的陈列。

The display installation “Time Flow" expresses this wonderful regard. It is flowing,but also standstill; It rises and falls like a hill with clear angle; It is a set of 10cm*10cm cubes that growing around the stairway entrance, to fit the free combination on different size of tools, machines, products and suit mannequin display.

量体裁衣

Body Measurement and cutting

一身得体的西装，需建立在服装设计师对消费者身体细节尺寸的把握。我们把男性身体和所需测量的位置标记出，并用插画的形式把它做以呈现，以实际人体2:1的比例印于入口的玻璃立面上，使它与“时间流动” 陈列装置形成一场有趣的对话。

A proper suit needs to be based on details of the body measurement and carefully control by fashion designer. We marked the each part of the male body and the required measurement, then present it into illustration, which is printed into 2:1 scale on the deep blue glass facade of the entrance. Consequently, there is an interesting dialogue somewhere between male body illustration and the “Time Flow” display installation.

空间的功能围绕 “时间流动” 展开环形动线的布置，设置了缝纫与裁剪师工作的空间，以便消费者更加直观的看到西服制作的过程。

平面图 Plan

量体区，座椅区与试衣区的结合，以及充分利用墙面展示的考量，整面展示墙设计为 45cm*45cm的可开启布料柜，并结合多彩衬衫与配件的展示。

The function of space is to arrange the circulation around the "Time Flow", setting up a space for sewing and tailoring, so that consumers can see the process of suit making more intuitively. The combination of body measurement area, seating area and fitting area, and the consideration of wall display, which is designed as an fabric catalogue cabinet by 45cm*45cm size, and also combined with colorful shirt and accessories display on the wall。

VIP区的水磨石长桌由内而外地贯穿于空间中，从而加强了整体空间的几何结构语言。长桌尽头1:1的半身人模，缩小至1:100藏在立方体之间的石膏像，2:1的量体插画，这

三者关于人体阐述的相似性与其不同的比例关系，形成了空间中微妙的戏剧张力。

The long terrazzo table in VIP lounge is connecting the space from inside to outside,which emphases the geometric structure language of the whole space. The 1:1

scale of half-body mannequin at the end of long table, the hidden plaster portrait in the cubes that scale down into 1:100, and the 2:1 scale of body measurement

illustration, the different proportion and similarity of the three human body formed dramatic tension in space subtly.